love st. john
St. John Island
We were lucky enough to take a trip to St. John Island for a week with the kids after Christmas 2023. It was magical!
Background and History
St. John Island, part of the United States Virgin Islands, is renowned for its stunning natural beauty and vibrant ecosystem. With two-thirds of the island protected by Virgin Islands National Park, St. John offers visitors opportunities to explore pristine beaches, lush forests, and diverse wildlife.
The island features several popular beaches, including Trunk Bay, known for its crystal-clear waters and snorkeling opportunities. Cinnamon Bay and Maho Bay are also favorites among tourists seeking sun and relaxation. The underwater environment around St. John is rich with coral reefs, making it a prime spot for diving and snorkeling activities.
St. John's hiking trails range from easy walks to more challenging treks, providing access to breathtaking views and historical ruins. The Annaberg Sugar Plantation ruins offer a glimpse into the island's past, reflecting its sugar cane industry heritage.
Dining on St. John encompasses a variety of options, from casual beachside eateries to more upscale restaurants. Local cuisine often features fresh seafood and Caribbean flavors, highlighting the island’s culinary offerings.
For those interested in eco-tourism, St. John promotes sustainable practices and conservation efforts, encouraging visitors to respect the natural surroundings. Overall, St. John Island is an idyllic destination for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and those looking to unwind in a serene environment.
There are many choices of how to spend your days, but here is what we did!
I recommend booking an airbnb or VRBO for the week in Cruz Bay. Walking distance to town was very convenient for going out to dinner. We really enjoy having a kitchen for easy breakfasts at home and cooking a few dinners at home after long days out and about!
Book a car on the island early! I made an error on this one and booked one at a Tortola location (same name, different place). It was stressful but we did find a car to rent on day 3. It turned out ok because the first couple days we took the cabs to beaches with limited parking!
Day 1: Arrive at St. John USVI
The first day of your trip will mostly consist of travel, as it takes a full day to reach St. John from most places. As there is no airport on the island, you must first fly into St. Thomas’s Cyril E. King Airport (STT) and taking a ferry over to the island.
Rent a car from St. Thomas airport or on island. If you rent from the airport then book the car ferry over to the island. If you rent on St. John, just take a cab to the passenger ferry.
After getting settled in, head out to enjoy an Italian dinner at Lovango Rum Bar. They have very good drinks and pizza!
Day 2: Sea Turtles at Maho Bay
Start your morning with a walk through town and up the hiking trail at Honeymoon Bay.
Spend your first day at Maho Bay Beach, which has some of St. John’s prettiest water and lots of amenities. This is the last beach along North Shore Road from Cruz Bay, so there is plenty of coastal scenery to enjoy during the 17-minute drive. Before arriving at the beach, you’ll see the Maho Bay Overlook. Pull off the road and take a quick photo stop before continuing onto the beach. Here, you can take in the beauty of the multihued turquoise water surrounding the boats anchored below. Later, after resting up from your beach day, grab dinner back at Cruz Bay Landing.
Day 3: Oppenheimer Beach and North Shore Deli
Start your day on the island with a small morning hike up to the Peace Hill Windmill. It’s a bit of a climb, but only a hundred meters long and doable for most skill levels. At the top, you’ll find the ruin of an old windmill, as well as beautiful 180-degree views of the surrounding beaches. When you’ve finished taking in the scenery, choose from one of these two quiet yet gorgeous North Shore beaches that are near each other:
To nab one of the three parking spots in the driveway at Oppenheimer beach, you must arrive by 8:30am at the latest. If you succeed in getting a spot, you’ll be rewarded with a spacious, shady beach with no crowds. We took a cab, which proved to be very convenient!
We picked up lunch on the way from North Shore Deli. You can call ahead of time and place your order - very good sandwiches and grab/go salads.
The sun typically sets just in time for dinner, so next, head over to Rum Hut to dine right on the water.
Day 4: Hike and Lunch
Check out another of St. John’s best hiking trails today. Your choice will depend on the time you want to devote and your ability. The Reef Bay Trail is one of the most famous and well-loved on St. John USVI. It is an out-and-back hike that totals about five miles. It’s best to set aside a few hours to complete it and enjoy the many sights along the way. It’s a bit easier at the beginning as you descend into a valley, but the climb back up is more challenging on the return leg. Along this hike, you will pass Danish plantation ruins (the US bought the island from Denmark in 1917) in various degrees of intactness. There is also the option to veer off onto the quarter- mile Petroglyph Trail to see ancient rock carvings. We decided to hike to the Petroglyphs and then turn around which was plenty challenging and took about 2 hours roundtrip.
Treat yourself after your hike to lunch at Skinny Legs, which is fifteen minutes away in Coral Bay. This is a popular haunt for locals and visitors alike who seek a no-frills beach bar with good sandwiches, burgers, and drinks. If you still have room, grab a piece of the super tart key lime pie for dessert — it’s the best on the island!
We chose to cook at home since it was new years eve and we had fun plans for the night. We chose to celebrate at the beach bar, which is right on the beach had a band! Then went to Lovango Rum Bar who closed off the street and had a great DJ.
Day 5: Boat Charter
Today is the day to get out on the blue-green Caribbean Sea by joining a full or half day boat tour. There are various charter companies that do both private and group tours. If you want to visit the famous floating taco bar, Lime Out, I highly recommend a tour with Bad Kitty. It makes a couple snorkel stops in crystal-clear, remote waters before taking you to Lime Out for lunch. The day ends with a stop at one of St. John’s perfect beaches. A stop at Lime Out is totally worth it for its high-quality food, some of the tastiest being the short rib and fresh tuna tacos. Plus, all its containers are either reusable or biodegradable, and it runs entirely on solar energy — a win for the environment!
Once again we opted to cook at home. Everyone was tired from the night before plus the full boating day. Easy pasta, salad, bread and to bed early!
Day 6: Cinnamon Bay Beach
After a morning hike we drove to Cinnamon Bay Beach. This beach is one of the longest along the North Shore, and you can admire the mansions of Peter Bay perched up on a hill to the west. Parking was not too bad. There is a snack shack with great lunch and drinks so you dont have to pack a picnic.
After the beach head over to Windmill Bar for sunset. Its absolutely beautiful and something not to miss!
We had dinner back in Cruz Bay at The Longboard. Its menu features mouthwatering poke bowls and ceviche.
Day 7: Final day!
On your last day, make sure to hit all of the scenic overlooks along North Shore Road if you haven’t already. The Trunk Bay Overlook, about 11 minutes down the road from Cruz Bay, is the most famous view on St. John, so you definitely don’t want to miss it.
Next, continue on to Trunk Bay, where you can park either in the adjacent paved lot or along the road. Arrive by 10 am, or you might not find a parking spot at this super popular beach.
Facing the water at Trunk Bay, there is more sun to the right and more shade to the left. You can spend the day enjoying arguably some of the best scenery on St. John, snorkeling the coral reefs on the underwater trail around Trunk Cay, and grabbing small bites at the snack shack.
Later in the day, head to the shops in Cruz Bay’s Mongoose Junction before dinner. This is a great place to grab any last-minute souvenirs.
Head back into Cruz Bay for happy hour at The Beach Bar for $4 painkillers. Stay until sunset to be rewarded with amazing views right from your seat. The Beach Bar has a full menu, so you can dine here or head somewhere a little less casual with even more ambience for dinner.
We decided to try the Lime Inn in Cruz Bay for our last dinner. This is a sister restaurant to Lime Out, with virtually the same drink menu. Although it has a casual vibe, the Lime Inn makes for a festive evening out, with entrees featuring Caribbean lobster and fresh tuna.
Day 8: Check out and Fly home
The next morning, you’ll make your return trip on the ferry to St. Thomas, with perhaps one last breakfast at High Tide or The Landing before you leave.
Since we got our rental car from St. Thomas, we booked a spot on the car ferry. You need to go early and line up to get on board.
If you did not, just take the passenger ferry and cab to the airport.
I hope you enjoy the island as much as we did!
Hugs,
Whitney